Sometimes there can be artifacts (side effects), so I don't always apply these "filters". I try some noise reduction and/or noisegate. It usually takes a day (or a weekend) for me to fix-up an LP. Wave Repair seems to work best when used manually. WARNING - This can be very time consuming. It does an amazing job by replacing the defect with the just-preceding or just-following few milliseconds of sound (or a couple of other methods). I use Wave Repair ($30 USD) to remove "ticks", "clicks", and "pops". (Clipping is distorted flat-topped "waves", caused by trying to go above the digital maximum of 0dB.) I run Maximize to check the peak level, and if it's 0dB I assume it's clipped and I re-record. If the CD is available, I'll buy it! My LP-to-CD transfers almost never turn-out quite "CD quality". There are lots of hints & tips about recording/digitizing LPs on this page. Just in case you haven't read any of my posts on the subject. Their meters are calibrated to indicate 0dB at 18dB below clipping.) But, the pros have low-noise electronics, and I assume their analog-to-digital converters are calibrated for higher analog levels (more "headroom"). * From what I've read, professionals recording at 24-bits, typically record at about -18dBFS. I believe the signal is being attenuated at both ends (neither side is adding gain), so it shouldn't make much difference where it's attenuated. Is this OK? As long as the signal out of the Hi-Fi isn't way too strong or way too weak, I don't think this makes any difference. Again, is there an optimum balance between the two? Currently, I use an amp setting that I would also use for direct playback (say, 4 where the range is 0-10) and I find that GW volume varies in a range 50-75. My (old and very average quality) hi-fi set-up means that I have to use the volume control on the amp as well as the volume setting in Control on GW.
0 kommentar(er)
